My Week on Åland

A trip to the Island Games usually seems to involve encountering one or more of the competing teams on route, and this year proved no exception as on arriving at the SAS check in desk at Manchester Airport for my flight to Stockholm I was met by a sea of bags bearing the red Welsh dragon. The Ynys Môn team was sharing the same flight, and I am sure the small number of passengers on board not heading for Åland must have wondered what was going on!

Two years ago in Rhodes the Opening Ceremony had started promisingly but been spoiled by running on for far too long. This then was the first test for the Åland organising committee, and one they passed with flying colours, as events started right on time at 6.30pm, and ended a few minutes ahead of the scheduled 8.30pm conclusion. The weather, as it was to remain for most of the week, was glorious, and the Wiklöf Holding Arena was packed to the rafters, as it was to be on several further occasions for the athletics and football events.

The march of the island teams into the arena is always a colourful and spectacular sight, and here the planning and organisation was superb, with teams entering alternately from either end of the stadium, then marching round the running track and back across towards the stand to take up their place on the field. As they did so each island was introduced in Swedish and English, the announcements managing to be timed to coincide with each island marching across the pitch.

The Dunder dance group and Swedish based Canadian born comedian Jack Mittleman provided entertainment, before speeches from Dick Ekström, chairman of the organising committee, and Jörgen Pettersson, chairman of the International Island Games Association. Mr Pettersson promised each of the competitors that the next week would be one they would remember for the rest of their lives, something that I think is true for every visitor to the Games. The microphone was then passed to Roger Nordlund, speaker of the Åland parliament, to officially declare the Games open.

I think Åland like to see themselves as innovators as far as the Island Games is concerned, and when they last staged the Games in 1991 they introduced for the first time the now revered water ceremony. This time around they introduced the Island Games Anthem, ‘Let The Games All Begin’, which was to be heard throughout the week ahead to herald the arrival of the competitors. It was beautifully performed live at the Opening Ceremony by Therese Karlsson as everyone rose to their feet to mark the parade and rising of the IGA flag with all due ceremony.

Janne Holmén and Ing-Marie Holmberg took the oath on behalf of all the competitors, before the water ceremony, every bit as symbolic to the Island Games as the lighting of the flame is to the Olympics. Each island brings a flask of water collected from its own shoreline to be poured in to a fountain which then springs into life. The honour of being the island’s water carrier is often given to the youngest member of each squad, and there were probably plenty of nervous hands as each flask was emptied into the fountain.

Various entertainment brought the ceremony to a conclusion, with the Dunder dance group joining the Ålands musikinstitut for a Queen tribute entitled Queenian Rhapsody. I’m not sure why that was chosen, but it was pretty entertaining nonetheless, and certainly the first time I have seen a musical performance led by a conductor wearing a mini-skirt and knee length boots! The finale was a firework display, sensibly kept quite brief given that it was still broad daylight, but with some notable improvisation, including rockets being set off from atop the stadium’s towering floodlight pylons.

It was then a short stroll down to the pedestrianised centre of Mariehamn, and the entertainment area that had been set up for the Games, dubbed ‘Games Street’. This was something that had first been tried on a smaller scale in Shetland in 2005, and proved a great success in Åland, proving an excellent meeting point each evening, as well as having a surprisingly good range of food available, and, of course, plenty of drinks! It was also located right across the road from the Åland parliament building that housed the Games Office, which was open late each night and had internet access to the games results site, which enabled us to keep up to date with all the results we hadn’t picked up on the grapevine.

Day 1 - Sunday 28th June 2009

With four football games to watch today there would be little opportunity to fit in any other sports.

The opening game kicked off very early in the Wiklöf Holding Arena, between hosts Åland and Greenland, to enable the stadium to be prepared for its primary role for the rest of the week as the venue for the athletics events. Despite the 10.00am start a crowd of around 900 spectators were in attendance to see Åland record a 4-2 victory. We then had a tight schedule to get to our next venue, Vikingavallen in Jomala, about ten minutes drive away, in time for the 12 noon kick off. It was actually about a minute past the appointed start time when we arrived, but we were pleased to hear the strains of ‘Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau’ being played, meaning the game hadn’t yet begun. When it did, Ynys Môn raced into a two goal lead over Froya, eventually winning 3-0.

There was time to call for a sandwich before our next game, and I was dropped off at Markusböle for the women’s fixture between Gotland and Jersey. This was probably my favourite ground of the one’s used during the week, being more enclosed than some, with seating along both sides, but still enjoying an absolutely idyllic rural setting. Gotland won the game 5-1, and then it was back to Vikingavallen for the final game of the day, another women’s fixture between Isle of Man and Isle of Wight that, despite only being the opening day, was always likely to be crucial in the group. Isle of Man came out on top 4-1, before it was time to head back to Games Street for some much needed refreshment and a chance to catch up on events elsewhere during the day.

Day 2 - Monday 29th June 2009

Another early start today, but this time to head up to the Ålands Idrottscenter in Godby to take in the swimming and table tennis events. This impressive facility is the newest of the venues that were hosting events in the Games. Swimming often provides some of the most exciting events of the Games from a spectator viewpoint, although it is the evening finals as opposed to the mornings heats that provide most drama, and unfortunately our football schedule didn’t allow for an evening visit to the swimming this time around. Whilst here we were able to pick up the first of six daily special issues of the Ålandstidningen newspaper, which were distributed free at Games venues, and provided a wealth of coverage in both Swedish and English, as well as numerous photos.

Back to the football, and my 12 noon kick off was at Rangsby in Saltvik, another lovely setting, where Jersey gained what was to be a vitally important 1-0 win over Rhodes. Another visit to Vikingavallen followed, with Guernsey convincingly defeating Ynys Môn 2-0, before rounding the day off with a return to Markusböle, where Isle of Man gained a surprisingly comfortable 5-0 victory over Western Isles. It was here that several of us were introduced to a local newspaper reporter who was keen to learn about our reasons for travelling to the Island Games. Perhaps happily for those of us who don’t particularly seek publicity, he was most interested in the habit of one of our group in making an accurate count of the crowd watching each game, so it was he who featured in Ålandstidningen a couple of days later, and received plenty of banter about it as you may expect!

Day 3 - Tuesday 30th June 2009

Up early again, this time for a volleyball match, starting at the unearthly time of 8.45am. One of our group stayed at the same hotel as the Hitra squad in Guernsey in 2003, and got to know several of their officials, and as the only team event Hitra usually enter is the women’s volleyball, we traditionally go to support them in that. As one of the smaller islands, victories are rare, and here they were beaten by Rhodes. Volleyball is staged at Baltichallen, another impressive venue, this one situated on the south side of Mariehamn, and right next to the football pitches at Ytternäs which were only used as a training facility during the Games. Before our first football game of the day we also have time for a brief call at the archery venue at Backeberg, also more regularly a football facility.

I am dropped off at Hammarvallen for a crucial game between Ynys Môn and Gibraltar, who won the competition two years ago in Rhodes. Victory for Gibraltar would be likely to see them finish the group on level points with Guernsey, and qualification for the semi-finals would come down to goal difference. In a tense encounter they eventually take the lead, but rather lose their discipline as they slip to a 3-1 defeat. Whilst waiting for my lift to the next game, I take full advantage of the superb catering at Hammarvallen, which is a step up on that available at any of the other grounds. A barbecue offers a choice of grilled sausage or salmon served with potato salad, which was followed by the traditional desert of Ålandspannkaka, served the traditional way with cream and prunes. Despite my initial reservations about the prunes, it was delicious!

My remaining two games of the day are on what are now becoming familiar venues. Markusböle hosts the decisive meeting between Åland and Menorca, with the hosts needing just a draw to reach the semi-finals, whilst Menorca had to win. In truth, Menorca are the better team, but are handicapped by their ’keeper getting sent off in only the 3rd minute, and that proves costly as a 1-1 draw sees Åland top the group. The Åland women’s squad are on hand to support their men’s team, for the first half at least, and it is gratifying to note that the locals are no more immune to the local mosquitoes than their foreign visitors, with several bites apparent, although I wouldn’t want to give the impression that my concentration on the game was less than it should have been as a result of sitting near a group of attractive blondes wearing shorts!

The reason the Åland women were only able to watch half of the previous game was that thay were in action in the final game of the day, back at Vikingavallen. Greenland were their opponents, and briefly threatened a shock as they led 2-1 courtesy of a goal from close to the half-way line, but Åland hit back to win 6-2. Both games featuring the hosts attracted excellent support, with both crowds around the 500 mark.

Day 4 - Wednesday 1st July 2009

Today is a rest day in the men’s football, whilst all the women’s games are scheduled for 7pm kick offs, so there is the chance for a lie in and the opportunity to take in some other sports. Athletics and tennis provide the morning entertainment, the venues being right next to each other, before we take the chance to head to the scenic Café Uffe på Berget for lunch. On the way back into town we call in at Bollhalla, which is the second venue for tennis as well as hosting gymnastics, before taking in more volleyball.

Hitra are again in action, this time against Saaremaa, always one of the favourites in this event. The result is, therefore, never in doubt, but it is interesting to see the Hitra team receiving vociferous backing from the Falkland Islands men’s football team. A knowledge of Island Games history is needed to explain this, and dates back to the Isle of Man in 2001, when the two teams regularly supported each other at their respective events. Whilst many of the Falklands footballers are survivors from those Games, the Hitra volleyball squad are all newcomers, so I think they are a little surprised if delighted by the support. No doubt their predecessors will have filled them in on the relationship when they got back home.

With only the one football game to choose today, it is an ideal time to head out to Bengtsböle in Lemland. This is a little remote from the other venues, so the extra time available today is welcome. Åland are taking on Gotland in what could well be a dress rehearsal for the women’s final, so not surprisingly it is a fairly cagey affair, with Åland coming out on top by a score of 2-0. Once again, the hosts are well supported, with around 600 spectators in attendance.

Day 5 - Thursday 2nd July 2009

Today sees the start of the play offs to decide the final placings in the men’s football, and Falkland Islands and Froya meet on the Vikingavallen 3G artificial grass pitch to decide 15th and 16th position. Froya come from behind to win 3-1, and three of the Hitra volleyball team have come along to offer their support, though perhaps a little disappointingly it is to their neighbouring island rather than the Falklands.

Despite the 9am kick off time conditions are swelteringly hot, so it is nice to retreat indoors to the Vikingahallen, that separates the two football pitches here. This is the venue for badminton, and whilst watching this, I have the pleasure of meeting the IGA chairman Jörgen Pettersson. He has heard that a number of UK based football supporters are visiting for the Games, and it is nice to chat to him about the Games for a few minutes. The Island Games are often referred to as the ‘friendly games’, and they invariably live up to the name. I doubt too many supporters get the chance to meet the organisation’s top ranking official at something like the Olympics.

We call at the café in the nearby Sparhallen for lunch - not for the only time this week - I can’t help but think I have yet to find a UK supermarket with a café as good as this. Then on to the Baltichallen for more volleyball. Hitra are facing Guernsey, but on the main court is a meeting between medal contenders Faroe Islands and Menorca. I, therefore, decide to watch this game, but position myself at the back of the stand so I can also keep an eye on the Hitra game. Both games conveniently finish at almost exactly the same time, with the Faroes, who will end the week top of the overall medals table, coming out on top, and Hitra claiming a rare but memorable victory.

Both men’s football semi-finals are due to kick off at 4pm, and with Guernsey meeting Jersey the choice about which game to watch is an easy one, as I never previously had the chance to see a meeting between these big rivals. It is also my first visit to the Sportkila venue in Sund, which is almost as picturesque as Markusböle. Not surprisingly, for a match of this importance, there is lots of support from other members of the two islands squads, but it is Jersey who are able to celebrate a 2-0 victory. With an injury delay causing a later finish than expected, I am glad my final game of the day, a women’s fixture between Guernsey and Western Isles, is quite close by at Rangsby. I didn’t get the opportunity to watch the Western Isles women’s team on their Games debut two years ago, but they impress here in recording a 5-0 win.

Day 6 - Friday 3rd July 2009

A schedule of five football games in a day is a first for me, so today promises to be fairly hectic! An early morning return to the Vikingavallen 3G artificial grass pitch sees the play off for 9th and 10th positions, with Gibraltar defeating the Isle of Wight 3-0. Both squads would have had hopes for better than this at the beginning of the week, but most of the groups in the men’s football were extremely close. Then we head off to Solvallen in Eckerö, the last remaining ground in use for football that I have left to visit. Here Rhodes come out on top against Ynys Môn by a score of 4-0.

With our next game on the same ground, there is time to head down the road to the Eckeröhallen, which is the Games venue for basketball. This is a massive indoor facility that contains a full size football pitch, often used during the long winter months. Today it is staging the basketball semi-finals, and we have time to watch the first half of the women’s game between Guernsey and Gibraltar. The Sarnians hold a narrow lead when we leave, and as Guernsey are involved in our next football match, we soon learn they held on to that lead. Guernsey can also celebrate victory in the football, defeating the Isle of Man 5-0 in the bronze medal fixture, although three goals in the last ten minutes make the final scoreline a little misleading.

Next up we head to Hammarvallen for the women’s semi-final, and another chance to sample the excellent catering, prunes included! Gotland are taking on the Isle of Man, and the Gotland men’s team are offering their women’s team excellent support. However, they soon have competition, as the Isle of Man men’s squad arrive despite their own earlier disappointment. The Manxies take an early lead, but Gotland give an outstanding display to book their spot in the final with a 4-1 win.

The final event of the day is the men’s final, and the 9.30pm kick off is certainly the latest I have ever seen a football game commence. With hosts Åland in the final a packed crowd is guaranteed, but they are also competing in the men’s volleyball final which started a little earlier, so spectators are still entering the ground even at half-time, and the final attendance certainly reached at least 3,000. Jersey looked to be control as they led 2-0, but this was a tremendous game, and Åland pulled one goal back, and were only denied a dramatic late equaliser when they hit the post.

Day 7 - Saturday 4th July 2009

So to the final day of events, and another trip to Sund for a morning kick off to decide the women’s bronze medal. Isle of Man had missed out on the bronze medal in a penalty shoot out two years ago, so their celebrations were understandably long and loud when they defeated the Isle of Wight 3-1 here. After a final call for lunch at Sparhallen, we then headed for the women’s volleyball final between Saaremaa and the Faroe Islands. Saaremaa won the first set, but the Faroes came from well behind to level in the second. We had to leave at that point but it sounded like a tremendous contest as the Faroes eventually won by the narrowest of margins in the fifth set.

The women’s football final was the very last event of the Games, and the Wiklöf Holding Arena hosted yet another large crowd, this time around the 2,000 mark. Åland retained the title they won two years ago, with a thoroughly impressive showing as they defeated Gotland 2-0. The Gotland and Isle of Man men’s squads had now joined forces on the touchline to support their women’s teams as they received their medals, and I think they struck up a better rapport from supporting their respective women’s teams than when they played against each other earlier in the week. In many ways that sums up the Island Games. Few sporting events can cram so much into such a short space of time, and the opportunity for everyone to go along to different events helps build a tremendous atmosphere.

All that remained was a brief and simple closing ceremony, conducted in the only substantial rain shower we saw all week. That is traditionally followed by an end of games party, but with a 7.30am boat to catch the following morning, we left that to those of much younger years. Joining us on that boat were the Isle of Wight and Ynys Môn squads, some of whom hadn’t slept all night, and I have to say in a lot of cases it showed!

Just a day after returning home the following e-mail was received from Åland.

TOGETHER WE MADE IT HAPPEN!! THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING!

The past week gave us one of the most memorable and exciting events that has happen on Åland in a very long time. Since the first teams put their feet on our soil until the last ones got on the ferry early this morning, there has been an explosion of smiles and laughter throughout the island.

Games record after games record was made and each day of competition showed all of us that the athletes are getting stronger and stronger for each year. The performances was spectacular and the spectators made sure that everyone felt as special as they really are!

When the final competition ended on Saturday it was clear that this year the Faroe Islands was the over all winner with 81 medals all together, and an amazing 34 golds!! Well done! Isle of Man landed a well deserved second place with Jersey breathing down their neck on third.

The biggest surprise during the week must have been the weather, which presented clear blue skies and a sun that almost never set. With long nights and long days Games Street was a perfect place to relax and meet fellow sportsmen and friends. The music played until the early hours of the morning and the dancing probably lasted even a little bit longer for many.

The Games are now over - this time around. And what a week it has been. This could not have been possible without every single one of you that participated; athletes, volunteers, sponsors, organisers, spectators, friends and families. Every single one of you has been such an important piece of the puzzle and we did this all together! And together we have created memories and friendships that will last forever, bands between islands that will only grow stronger over the years and a vision of what we can be looking forward to when the next Games will take place - on the carnival island of Isle of Wight!

Thank you all for your participation and all of your smiles! Luckily it is only two years time until we all meet again on Isle of Wight for the NatWest Island Games XIV 2011.

Take care and again - Thank you!!


Just one thing needs to be added to that, and that is the heartfelt thanks from each visitor to the Games to everyone on Åland. Åland you were the perfect hosts!

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